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High in the Pyrenees, where France meets Spain and the fresh air hits the sunshine, La Cerdanya remains one of the best kept secrets in Europe. The island in the sky, as the locals call it, sits at about 3500 feet above sea-level, surrounded by high alpine peaks. Running roughly 25-30 miles in length, the east-west valley occupies a small patch of northernmost Spain, from the slopes of Andorra at the western end to the fortified frontier towns of France in the east. It’s a cultural crossroads of French, Spanish and Catalan, where you never know which language to expect.
The main attractions in Cerdanya have to do with getting outdoors and reconnecting with nature. But this is no ordinary encounter with nature. It’s more like nature on steroids, nature as Salvador Dalí might imagine it: bigger, stronger, cleaner and higher. The stunning Pyrenees form an impenetrable ridge on all sides, keeping the clouds and mountain storms out, blessing the region with 300 sunny days a year. And in less than two hours you can be on the French Mediterranean or in sophisticated Barcelona. But as long as you’re here, do consider the following activities.
1) Bask in the beauty and soak in the hot springs. The mountains of Cerdanya are well-known for their hot and healing mineral waters. The variety of natural hot springs runs the gamut from the rugged and rustic to the elite and exclusive. You could literally spend a whole week just exploring the mineral baths of Cerdanya, but if you’ve only got one afternoon, head to Dorres, and treat yourself to a few hours in the Roman Baths. Enjoy the hand-carved granite pools and the open-air outdoor tubs of Bains de Dorres, where the therapeutic sulfur waters are kept at a constant 38ºC (100ºF). Feel like royalty, for the low price of about 5 euros.
2) Ascend any direction outwards from the valley, and you’ll discover hundreds of miles of pristine hiking trails. Explore the mountains, loose yourself in the forests, or if it’s wintertime, strap on some skis, grab your sunglasses, and make tracks across the powder. We found some of the best hiking around Osseja, on the French side, with nearly a dozen different pathways. But my favorite was the walk from Dorres, up to the 13th century, mountain-top chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Belloc. Prepare yourself for a steep incline, and a breathtaking panorama from the 4,100-foot summit.
3) For a little voyage back in time, head out to the 13th century village of Bellver de Cerdanya. Recent restorations have turned the charming old town into a veritable museum of immaculate stone masonry and picturesque cobblestone alleys. We somehow made our way to the church at the top of the hill, winding our VW bus through the narrowest of passageways. But do yourself a favor and park by the school at the bottom of the hill. The ten minute walk up the stone steps to the central, hilltop plaza will dazzle you with a fantastic succession of photo ops.
4) Take a step off the beaten track and discover the all-too-easily overlooked village of Arsèguel, population 81. Arsèguel features some very similar old-world stonework to nearby Bellver, but sits precariously along the edge of a canyon. Virtually every house has a hair-raising view, over the cliff and into the pine forest, and another spine-tingling view southwards, towards the colossal Serra del Cadí, one of the most imposing ranges in the Spanish Pyrenees. You can walk the whole town in less than fifteen minutes. But if you’re really luckily, you can make it here in July for the world-renowned Accordion Festival!
5) Puigcerdá, Spain, the unofficial capital of this mult-culti region, remains Cerdanya’s central spot for dining, entertainment and sporting events. Anyone for hockey? (Sorry, no bull fighting rings up here in the Pyrenees.) But if you really want to enjoy a fabulous, world class meal, at a very reasonable price, then set your GPS for Montellà.
Make your way westward, where the valley narrows into a tight canyon, and try the lunch menu at Cal Tupinet, the only restaurant in town. You can find it easily, across from the hilltop church and adjacent to the town’s only parking lot. A town this size just isn’t big enough for a second restaurant, especially with one as good as the Tupinet. Savor the deliciously fresh salmon pastella or the hearty servings of regional specialties, and delight in (yet another) breathtaking panorama of the spectacular mountain landscapes.
6) For the greatest panorama of all, and if you’re feeling especially extravagant, embark on one of the hot air balloons rides that bob up and down and over the valley every weekend. Overcome your fear of heights and see the high plateau in all its sunny splendor. If you’ve never tried it, this is a uniquely amazing way to view the earth from a fresh perspective, drifting silently through the troposphere.
Be prepared to spend about 150 € per adult on a shared balloon with up to eight passengers, or 700 € for two people in a private balloon ride. The ride lasts about one hour, but plan to spend about half a day for the entire excursion.
7) The Yellow Train (Le Train Jaune) runs from Bourg-Madame, out of the valley, and deep into the French Pyrenees. But your best bet is to drive out to Mont-Louis, and take a look at this historic fortified city. Then board the Yellow Train to Villefranche-de-Conflent. The round-trip journey will take you through the most impressive sections of the railway—across thrilling bridges and across dazzling mountain vistas—without busting your wallet or taking up your entire day.
Strategically situated in its scenic location, Villefranche was fortified in the 11th century to defend against repeated invasions from either side of the Pyrenees. Marshall Vauban, the same military architect who fortified Mont-Loius and several other French cities, enhanced the defensive walls in 1707, and Villefranche recently earned the distinction of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
These days, the only invasions of Cerdanya come from the armies of high society escaping Barcelona on their weekend getaways. So plan your trip during the week if you’re hoping to avoid the crowds, or come on the weekend and expect the shops and restaurants to be busier, but somewhat more stimulating. Either way, La Cerdanya promises to be a breath of fresh air from the hordes of people and traffic in the big city, and chances are you’ll want to return again and again.
For more reflections on the Cerdanya region, check out these other articles.
